Kindred is a one-hatted restaurant widely beloved by locals in the Darlington/Redfern area, so what makes this restaurant such a popular local institution? Let’s find out in today’s blog.
Kindred was a much hyped and frequently discussed restaurant when I worked at Redfern. At the time, I found it difficult to understand why a small, local restaurant in Redfern was so beloved. However, there is a reason this family-owned restaurant has been one-hatted for four years in a row per the Good Food Guide. Kindred offers a seasonal menu with extensive wine options for every occasion. Let’s get into the feed.
Starters
Smoked trout dip on lavosh
I’m passionate about a good starter (even more so than mains) because a great restaurant can get me hooked from the first bite, and that’s exactly what happened with Kindred’s smoked trout dip on lavosh. The photo looks deceptively simple; however, the addition of salsa verde and tomato vinaigrette on the trout enhances the acidity and richness of the flavour profile. Needless to say, this is a must-try!
House-made sourdough bread
A restaurant that doesn’t specialise in baked goods can rarely produce such a soft, pillowy, and more-ish sourdough bread. I was told that the bread is a must-try at Kindred, and my friends weren’t wrong – the house-made sourdough bread is everything my carb dreams are made of, served with cultured butter or olive oil. The fact that we ordered more bread for the table halfway through dinner says it all.
Entrees
King salmon crudo
I have a soft spot for cured raw seafood, and a salmon crudo is the epitome of a refreshing, delicious, and umami entree for the table. Kindred has garnished the salmon crudo with pickled cucumber, capers, horseradish cream, and dill oil – the high acidity combination brings a sharp, tangy aftertaste with a bright and herbal flourish of flavour. If you are looking for a clean, fresh, and tangy palate cleanser, give the salmon crudo a try.
Stracciatella
Scroll up to the part where I gushed about the house-made sourdough bread – the part where I said we ordered more halfway through the meal? Well, this stracciatella with Olasagasti anchovies, pickled radicchio, caponata, and puffed amaranth was the root cause. The rich, creamy stracciatella was offset by the anchovies’ umami and the pickled elements. The serving size was quite generous; another crowd pleaser that will be loved by all at the table.
Carrot Triangoli
If you order one thing from Kindred, please let it be this carrot triangoli with pistachios, goat’s cheese, and brown butter. This was by far my favourite dish of the night – was it the delicious caramelisation from the brown butter, the nuttiness of the pistachio, or the creamy addition of the goat’s cheese? I don’t know, but what I do know is that this dish garnered a collective sigh of contentment across the table. Enough said.
Mains
Mafaldine
If I’m being 100% honest, this Malfadine was yummy but not mind-blowingly amazing. On the menu, it sounded premium with wagyu beef neck MBS9+, porcini, cavolo nero, and truffle pecorino; however, I found myself wishing for a palate cleanser to cut through the rich flavours of beef, porcini, and truffle. Kindred has an extensive pasta menu, so next time I might try a more classic rigatoni or gnocchi.
Sides and salads
Cabbage
I’m usually not partial to sides, but my go-to is a bowl of hot chips (always a crowd pleaser), though Kindred’s sides and salads had my full attention. You might be wondering – what’s so special about cabbage? This looks like an elevated coleslaw, but that’s the beauty of food. Kindred takes cabbage and enhances its flavours with the fragrance of pine nuts, the sweetness of currants, and the sharp, tangy pecorino, all topped off with a umami buttermilk dressing. This was the perfect side to the malfadine, and I will be more attentive to sides and salads on restaurant menus in the future.
Dessert
Cheesecake semi-fredo
Kindred’s dessert menu keeps it simple and delicious. We tried the tiramisu (not pictured), which was balanced in flavour and perfectly more-ish. The flavour kick came from the cheesecake semi-fredo, incredibly light with the assistance of the lemon curd, enhancing the tangy aftertaste of the airy semi-fredo. Even if you don’t have a sweet tooth, please try both desserts. You’ll thank me later 😉
Overall rating: 9/10
Kindred
Address: 137 Cleveland St, Darlington NSW 2008
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